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Laturiongelmia


Guest maaskis

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Guest maaskis

Eli minissäni on hivenen järeämpi akku autohifilaitteiden takia? Ongelmana on ettei vakio laturi jaksa millään ladata noin suurta akkua. Eli mistäköhän saisi isompia latureita (n.100a) miniin jotka sopisivat suoraan vakiokiinnikeille taikka pienellä modifioinnilla?

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Guest 970s

Itse vaihdoin juuri Tiihosen Akin vinkistä 80-lukuisen Fordin laturin, sopii suoraan Lucasin tilalle ja puskee 70A. On myös sama piuhojen pistoke.

 

Jukka

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Nuo Morriksen piuhat ovat aina olleet järeän sorttiset tasavirtalatureista alkaen enkä jaksa uskoa että ne alkaisivat käydä liian pieniksi.

 

Käytössä ei ole ainakaan ilmennyt mitään häikkää.

 

Jukka

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Guest morris66

seuraava on kopioitu Keith Calverin/Mini Sparesin sivuilta. muita uusia osia ei tarvitse kuin vaihtovirta laturin ja kiinnitys korvakkeet lohkoon. ellen väärin muista oheinen opastus on yksin kertaistettuna suomeksi seuraava: Lataussäätimelle tulee kolme paksua johtoa, jotka kytketään yhteen.Samoin latausssäätimelle tulee kolme ohutta johtoa joista kaksi kytketään yhteen ja ohut musta jätetään kytkemättä mihinkään. Oliko vaikeasti sanottu? kannattaa kuitenkin varmistaa kytkennät oheisesta Calverin ohjeesta. Omaan peliin jätin lataussäätimen kotelon josta poistin sisukset ja tein kykennät kotelon sisällä.

CALVER:Electrical

Dynamo to alternator conversion

Minis up until the early 1970's (except some Cooper S) were fitted with dynamos. These do not generate a great deal of current to charge the battery, or run extra lamps and in-car entertainment, and are less efficient than alternators. The mechanical regulator is also one more thing to go wrong - it can be bypassed when installing an alternator as the alternator has one installed.

If you are considering fitting an alternator to a Mk1 Mini or Cooper, please think twice if the car is in original condition - any modification of this type will reduce the value of the car (keep the olds parts so the modification is reversible).

Parts required: Lucas alternator, alternator mounting bracket, cable ties.

The recommended alternator is Lucas type 16ACR which delivers 34 amps at 6,000 rpm. 18ACR, 20ACR and higher can be used but generate more current - the ability of the Mini wiring loom to withstand this is not guaranteed.

1. Check vehicle polarity. Most dynamo equipped-cars will be postive-earth (positive lead of battery connected to body shell). This must be reversed (negative lead of battery connected to earth). Some cars will already have been converted to negative earth; if the negative terminal of the battery is connected to the body shell, nothing need be changed and all radios/tachometers/etc may be retained.

A new earth strap may be required if the positive-earth strap does not reach the negative terminal after the battery has been flipped around. If you have any tachometers, radios, or other electronic gadgets in your car and it is positive earth, they will have to be removed, at least until they can be converted to negative earth, assuming this is possible.

1. Fit the alternator and bracket into the position occupied by the dynamo. Connect the thick wire to the terminal marked S or +. Connect the thin wire to the terminal marked IND or WL. Ensure the fanbelt is tensioned correctly; replace if excessively worn.

2. Dynamo control box: remove the black wire from terminal E and. Remove the brown/green wire from terminal F and the brown/yellow or yellow wire from terminal D and connect them. Remove the wires from terminals AL, A and D and join them.

3. Insulate the ends of all wires/terminals that are now exposed and tie the wires off to convenient mounting points using cable ties.

4. Alternatively, the innards of the control box can be removed or bypassed and the appropriate wiring connections made inside the box, with the wiring loom wires still connected to the same terminals to give the original look.

Your Mini is now negative-earth instead of positive-earth

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